The Jasmine Bralette Crochet Pattern

Although I grew up in LA, I have never really been a summer person for some reason. I think it’s because I do not do well in the heat, in fact I don’t do well in almost any temperature, i’m always either too cold or too hot. However, recently I have been trying to warm up to the idea of summer (see what I did there?). Honestly it is probably because of the fashion aspect of it, I’m trying to learn how to dress according to season, which is kind of difficult sometimes especially when it comes to summer.

There is so much to take into consideration when it comes to summer, you can be melting and you still aren’t allowed to walk around topless like guys can. You need to find the fine line between not dying and not being too revealing, because you know heaven forbid people see a human body and get all judgmental and offended.

Personally I find it hard to feel fashionable in a tank top and shorts, some people can make it look amazing, but I am not one of those people haha, thus the Jasmine Bralette came to life! I wanted to make something breezy, a little longer than just a normal bralette, and I wanted it to be cute! So let’s dive into the pattern!

Materials:

• DROPS Love You 7 in Light Blue 
  • Approximately 510 – 1,200 yards (Sport weight yarn)
• 4.00 Crochet Hook
  • I used a Furls Candy Shop Crochet Hook

Measurements:

• Bra Cup Size
  
• Around below the bust

Gauge:

• Single Crochet – 4SC x 4 Rows = 1″x1″
• Double Crochet – 4DC x 2 Rows = 1″x1″

Abbreviations

• CH – Chain
• SC – Single Crochet
• DC – Double Crochet

First we are going to begin by working the bra cups, the size of which can be adjusted by the initial foundation chain. As usual these are approximate standard sizes so if you don’t think a standard size will work for you, you are more than free to alter it.

Bra Cups

Foundation

Chain 11 (15,20,26)

Row 1:

1. SC into the 3rd chain from the hook
2. Work SC stitches across the rest of the foundation chain
3. Chain 1 and turn

Row 2:

1. SC into each stitch across until you reach the loop that you created by skipping the first two chains in row 1.
2. Work 3 SC stitches into that loop
   1. Place a stitch marker in the 2nd SC that you work. This will be marked as the center top stitch. You will be moving the stitch marker to the center stitch in each following row to keep track of where that top stitch is.
3. You are now going to continue working on the opposite side of the foundation chain, so now work a SC into each stitch along the opposite side of the chain (make sure that it is the same amount of stitches that you have on the other side)
4. CH 1 and turn

Row 3-10:

You are going to begin repeating Row 2 in order to gradually increase the size of the cup.

1. SC into each stitch until you reach the top stitch
2. Work 3 SC into the top stitch
3. Continue working SC into each stitch until you reach the end
4. Chain 1

After you have reached row 10 (or the last row depending on the size you are making) you will Chain 3 and turn

Note that if you feel like your cup is going to need to be bigger, keep repeating that pattern till you feel like the cup is the right size and gives you a comfortable amount of coverage. You can then continue the pattern as directed, but just keep in mind that the following  row numbers will not be accurate.

Row 11:

1. That CH 3 counts as your first DC, so start by working 1 DC in the second stitch
2. Continue working 1 DC stitch into each stitch across until you reach the “top stitch”
3. Work 3 DC into the top stitch
4. Continue working 1 DC stitch into each stitch in the rest of the row
5. CH 1 and turn

Row 12-13:

1. SC into each stitch until you reach the top stitch
2. Work 3 SC into the top stitch
3. Chain 1 and turn

At the end of row 13 you will chain 4 rather than 1

Row 14:

You are going to be working DC here again, but you will be skipping every other stitch

1. The CH 4 from the end of the last row counts as your first DC and Chain 1
2. Skip 1 stitch
3. DC in the next stitch
4. CH1
5. Skip 1 stitch
6. DC in the next stitch
7. Repeat steps 4-6 until you reach the top stitch. Now because everyone will have a different amount of stitches depending on their cup size either your skipped stitches will lead you right up to the top stitch or it won’t, so don’t be afraid to add extra DC stitches on either side of the top stitch if it doesn’t line up.
8. Work 3 DC Stitches into the top stitch
9. Repeat steps 4-6 for the rest of the row, but make note that if you had to add any DC stitches on the other side of the top stitch, do the same exact thing on this side so that they will be even.
10. CH 1 and turn

Row 15:

1. Repeat the pattern from Row 2 one more time, you are working in SC again for this row.
2. CH 3 and turn

Row 16:

By this round the size of the cup will no longer increase, but it will add the frills around the top of the cups.

1. You should have a CH 3 on your hook from the end of the last row, take that CH 3 and slip stitch into the first stitch SC
2. CH 3 and slip stitch into the next SC stitch
3. Repeat step 2 until you make your way around the top of the bra cup until you reach the bottom row (but don’t work along the bottom)
4. Chain 1

Row 17:

Once you are done working the frills, you will start working along the bottom of the cup

1. Work 1 SC into each stitch all along the bottom row of the cup
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 18:

1. Work one more row of SC’s all along the bottom of the cup
2. Tie off

Repeat all Rows to create a second bralette cup so that you have two. You don’t need cut the yarn after completing the second cup, you can just go right into the next section from where you are (saves you from more ends to weave in haha)

Connecting the two Bra Cups

Our aim for these next few rows is to connect the two cups together

Row 1:

1. Starting at the end of the bottom row of one of the cups, work SC’s all along the bottom row of the cup. Once you have reached the end of the row, take the second bralette cup (make sure if it facing the same direction), insert your hook into the first stitch of the bottom row of the second bralette cup and work a SC, this is going to connect the two cups.
2. Once you have created that connecting SC, work SC’s all along the rest of the bottom row of the second bralette cup
3. Chain 1 and turn

Row 2:

1. Work one more row of SC along the bottom of both cups
2. Chain 1

Making the band

For this section we will be making the band underneath the cups that will wrap around the torso. In order to do this you are going to have to measure around the torso underneath your bust so you will know how long you need to make the band for it to fit you comfortably.

Once you have this measurement, you will measure how long your attached bralette cups are. Subtract the length of the cups from the measurement of around the torso underneath your bust and the number your are left with is how much length you will be adding to the bralette cups in order for it to fit around the torso. If this sounds confusing I will try to simplify it with this little diagram haha.

Row 1:

For this section we are going to start working the row of SC into the bralette cups and then once you reach the end of the row, begin chaining the extra length.

1. Starting at either end of the bralette cups, work SC stitch into each stitch across the entire row
2. Once you reach the end of the row, start chaining extra stitches until you have the correct amount of length added that you need to make the band fit around your torso, make sure that you end up working a number of chains that is a multiple of 2, this is needed so you can correctly skip ever other DC later on to create the hole like pattern in the middle of the band. 
3. Chain 1 extra stitch and turn

Row 2:

1. Work SC stitch into each chain stitch that you just created, and then continue working SC stitches along the whole row once you reach the bralette cups
2. Now you will be Slip Stitching into the first stitch of the band so you are attaching the ends so you can begin working in rounds for the rest of the top
3. Chain 2 (counts as first DC)

For the rest of the rounds, personally I always prefer to turn my work still so that I am working on the “Right Side” of the work, but if you don’t mind working into the “Wrong Side” then you can do that as well, it is up to preference. When you start working into the band, make cure that you are working into the bottom of the band.

Row 3 (round):

1. Your Chain 2 at the end of the previous row counted as your first DC of the round, so begin by working 1 DC into the second stitch of the round, and then continue to work DC into each stitch for the rest of the round
2. Slip Stitch into the beginning DC
3. Chain 1

Row 4 (round):

1. Work SC stitch into each stitch across the whole round
2. Slip Stitch into the beginning SC
3. Chain 1

Row 5 (round):

1. Work SC stitch into each stitch across the whole rounds
2. Slip Stitch into the beginning SC
3. Chain 2 (counts as first DC)

Row 6(round):

This is the round where you will be skipping every other stitch

1. Your Chain 2 at the end of the previous round counted as your first DC of the round, so begin by chaining 1 and skipping the second stitch
2. DC into the third stitch
3. CH 1 and skip one stitch
4. DC into the next stitch
5. Repeat steps 3-4 until you reach the end of the round
6. Slip Stitch into the beginning DC
7. Chain 1

Row 7 (round):

1. Work SC stitch into each stitch across the whole round
2. Slip Stitch into the beginning SC
3. Chain 2

Row 8 (round):

1. Work a DC stitch into each stitch across the whole round
2. Slip Stitch into the beginning DC
3. Chain 1

Row 9 (round):

1. Work SC stitch into each stitch across the whole round
2. Slip Stitch into the beginning SC
3. Chain 1

Row 10 (round):

1. Work SC stitch into each stitch across the whole round
2. Slip Stitch into the beginning SC
3. Chain 2  (counts as first DC of the next section)

Creating the Bottom Drape Section

For this section we will be making the ruffled drape section at the bottom of the top.

Round 1:

1. Your Chain 2 at the end of the previous round counted as your first DC of the round, so work 1 more DC into that first stitch so that you have 2 DC in your first stitch
2. Work 2 DC into the next stitch
3. Repeat step 2 so you are working 2 DC stitches into each stitch for the rest of the round
4. Slip Stitch into the beginning DC
5. Chain 2 (counts as first DC)

Round 2:

1. Your Chain 2 at the end of the previous round counted as your first DC of the round, work 1 more DC into that first stitch so that you have 2 DC in your first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Work 2 DC into the next stitch
4. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
5. Repeat steps 3-4 for the rest of the round
6. Slip Stitch into the beginning DC
7. Chain 2 (counts as first DC)

Round 2:

1. Your Chain 2 at the end of the previous round counted as your first DC of the round, work 1 more DC into that first stitch so that you have 2 DC in your first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
4. Work 2 DC into the next stitch
5. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
6. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
7. Repeat steps 4-6 for the rest of the round
8. Slip Stitch into the beginning DC
9. Chain 2 (counts as first DC)

Round 2:

1. Your Chain 2 at the end of the previous round counted as your first DC of the round, work 1 more DC into that first stitch so that you have 2 DC in your first stitch
2. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
3. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
4. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
5. Work 2 DC into the next stitch
6. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
7. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
8. Work 1 DC into the next stitch
9. Repeat steps 5-8 for the rest of the round
10. Slip Stitch into the beginning DC
11. Chain 2 (counts as first DC)

By now you will have noticed the pattern that is happening in each round. In each next round you are adding 1 more 1DC between the stitches where you have 2DC stitches. You will continue this pattern until you have reached your desired length. As a tip, this method eats up quite a bit of yarn so be prepared for that if you plan on making yours on the longer side.

Creating the Square in the back

Once you have repeated the pattern till you have your desired length you can tie your work off and tie in your ends. Then you will move into the back where we will be adding the square in the middle of the back where you will attach the straps from the back to the top of the bralette cups.

Before you can add the square you are going to have to find the middle of the back of the band. You can do this several ways, if you count how many extra chain stitches you added onto the bralette cups to create the band you can divide that by 2 and find out where the approximate middle stitch is that way. I chose the slightly less accurate way (don’t judge me haha) and simply lined up my bralette cups and folded the piece in half and placed a stitch marker at the approximate half way stitch as pictured below.

Ultimately your marked stitch should be able to evenly line up between the middle of the two bra cups when you lay it flat as you can see in the picture above. This way we know where the middle stitch of our back square will be located. In order for it to be symmetric, you need to add the same amount of stitches on either side of the middle stitch as will be explained in the following instructions.

Row 1:

Count 7 stitches away from your marked middle stitch that you just found (to the left or the right is fine, doesn’t really matter), this is where you will begin working your square.

1. Insert your hook into the 7th stitch from the middle stitch and work 1 SC into that stitch
2. Work 1 SC into the next 6 stitch
3. Work 1 SC into the middle stitch
4. Work 1 SC into the next 7 stitches
5. Chain 1 and turn

Row 2:

1. Work 1 SC into all 15 stitches
2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 3:

1. Work 1 SC into all 15 stitches
2. Chain 2 and turn (counts as first DC)

Row 4:

1. Your Chain 2 at the end of the previous row counted as your first DC of the row, so you will begin by working 1 DC into the second stitch
2. Work 1 DC into each stitch for the rest of the row
3. Chain 1 and turn

Row 5:

1. Work 1 SC into all 15 stitches
2. Chain 2 and turn (counts as first DC)

Row 6:

This is a row where you will be skipping every other stitch.

1. Your Chain 2 at the end of the previous row counted as your first DC of the row, so begin by chaining 1 and skipping the second stitch
2. DC into the third stitch
3. CH 1 and skip one stitch
4. DC into the next stitch
5. Repeat steps 3-4 until you reach the end of the row
6. Chain 1

Row 7:

1. Work 1 SC into all 15 stitches (The tops of the DC and the chain 1 spaces)
2. Chain 2 and turn (counts as first DC)

Row 8:

1. Your Chain 2 at the end of the previous row counted as your first DC of the row, so you will begin by working 1 DC into the second stitch
2. Work 1 DC into each stitch for the rest of the row
3. Chain 1 and turn

Row 9:

1. Work 1 SC into all 15 stitches (The tops of the DC and the chain 1 spaces)
2. Chain 2 and turn (counts as first DC)

At this point you can repeat Rows 6-9 until you have your square to your desired length for it to fit you comfortably, you can then tie off and weave in your ends.

Once your square is a comfortable length, you will work a string of chains from the top of one of the bralette cups to a comfortable length to fit over your shoulder and then attach it to the square int he back by working SC stitch across the top of the square. One you reach the end of the square continue chaining the same amount of chains you creating on the other side so that you have straps of equal lengths. Make sure you weave in any more ends and you are done!!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! It is a fun and breezy top perfect for the summer months, but honestly I live in Los Angeles so I can probably get away with wearing it in the Fall too haha. As always if you have any question please feel free to reach out, and if you end up making this top tag me on instagram or send me a picture! I would love to see the final product! You guys are the best!