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The Wilderness Explorer Sweater Crochet Pattern

Well guys it is finally that time, Fall is approaching! It is almost time for camp fires, cozy sweaters, rainy movies nights ( which always has to include a blanket fort of course), and hot chocolate! Now, I have done plenty of design that are Disney inspired, but I have never really done one that is super overtly Disney themed, with that being said I bring you The Wilderness Explorer Sweater! If you don’t immediately spot why this is Disney related, it is based on Russel’s Boy Scout Troop in the movie UP. I thought what better way to get into the Fall spirit than with a cozy sweater inspired by a movie about finding adventure in the great outdoors! This sweater is super easy to make and works up really fast so you can be cozy in record time!

wilderness explorer sweater front view

Now before I get into the details of the materials needed, I want to note that I don’t typically create my patterns on a standard size basis (XS – XL). I don’t do this because no two bodies are the same and I think that if you really want to make a piece specific to your body, that can be achieved much more accurately through taking personal measurements rather than following a pattern that will generally follow certain size guidelines. I understand that this is a risky move, so please give me some feedback on how you feel about this method if you can!

Materials:

  • 2-4 Skeins of Caron Simply Soft in  Sunshine (4 Worsted Weight)
  • 1 Skein of  Caron Simply Soft in Neon Orange
  • 1 Skein of  Caron Simply Soft in Dark Sage
  • 1 Skein of  Caron Simply Soft in Chocolate
    • You will be using very little of the Neon Orange, Dark Sage, and Chocolate yarns, so if you already have any Worsted yarns in these colors, you can of course replace those sections with whatever yarn you already have so you don’t have to but a whole skein to only use a few yards of it. 
  • 6.00mm Crochet Hook
  • Needle and thread to sew on the tree motif
  • Tapestry needle to sew together your pieces and weave in ends

Measurements:

  • Around The Bust (so you know how large to make your front and back panels)
  • From top of shoulder to desired length on arms (so you know how long to make your sleeves)

Abbreviations

  • SC – Single Crochet
  • DC – Double Crochet
  • CH – Chain
  • YO- Yarn Over

The sweater is composed of two large granny squares sewn together with sleeves attached (worked in rounds).

The Front Panel

For the front panel, we are going to begin by making the base of the Wilderness Explorer logo and then start working the granny square around it.

Foundation :

For the Foundation – Round 5 we are going to be working in Orange

  1. Chain 5
  2. Slip stitch into the first chain to create a circle
  3. Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

Round 1:

  1. Work 1 DC into the center of the circle
  2. Chain 1
  3. Work 2 DC into the center
  4. Chain 1
  5. Repeat steps 3-4, 4 more times
  6. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  7. Slip stitch into the top of the next DC so that you end up at the chain 1 space
  8. Slip stitch into the chain 1 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 6 groups of 2 DC, each separated by a chain 1 space

Round 2:

  1. Work 1 DC into the same chain 1 space that you worked your chain 3
  2. Chain 1
  3. Work 2 DC into the same chain 1 space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Work 2 DC into the next chain 1 space
  6. Chain 1
  7. Work 2 DC into the same chain 1 space
  8. Chain 1
  9. Repeat steps 5-8, 4 more times
  10. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  11. Slip stitch into the top of next DC so that you end up at the chain 1 space
  12. Slip stitch into the chain 1 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 6 groups of (2DC, CH1, 2DC) each separated by a chain 1 space

Round 3:

  1. Work 2 DC into the same chain 1 space that you worked your chain 3
  2. Chain 1
  3. Work 3 DC into the next chain 1 space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Repeat steps 3-4 for the rest of the round
  6. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  7. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 1 space
  8. Slip stitch into the chain 1 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 12 groups of 3 DC, each separated by a chain 1

Round 4:

  1. Work 2 DC into the same chain 1 space that you worked your chain 3
  2. Chain 1
  3. Work 3 DC into the next chain 1 space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Repeat steps 3-4 for the rest of the round
  6. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  7. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 1 space
  8. Slip stitch into the chain 1 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 12 groups of 3 DC, each separated by a chain 1

Round 5:

  1. Work 2 DC into the same chain 1 space that you worked the chain 3
  2. Chain 1
  3. Work 3 DC into the same space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Work 3 DC into the next chain 1 space
  6. Chain 1
  7. Work 3 DC into the same chain 1 space
  8. Chain 1
  9. Repeat steps 5-8 for the rest of the round
  10. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  11. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 1 space
  12. Tie off

You should end with 12 groups of (3DC, CH1, 3DC), each separated by a chain 1

center sweater circle in progress

Round 6:

We are now going to do a round in the Brown

  1. Work 3 DC into the chain 1 space
  2. Chain 1
  3. Work 3 DC into the next chain 1 space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Repeat steps 3-4 for the rest of the round
  6. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  7. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 1 space
  8. Tie off

You should end with 24 groups of 3 DC, each separated by a chain 1

Round 7:

We are now going to do the rest of the rounds in the Yellow

  1. Work 3 DC into the chain 1 space
  2. Chain 3
  3. Work 3 DC into the same chain 1 space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  6. Chain 1
  7. Repeat steps 5-6 , 4 more times
  8. Work 3 DC into the next chain 1 space
  9. Chain 3
  10. Work 3 DC into the same chain 1 space
  11. Chain 1
  12. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  13. Chain 1
  14. Repeat steps 12-13 , 4 more times
  15. Repeat steps 8-14 , 2 more times
  16. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  17. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 3 space
  18. Slip stitch into the chain 3 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 4 (3DC, CH3, 3DC) corners, each with 5 3DC clusters between them

Round 8:

  1. Work 2 DC into the space that you worked the chain 3
  2. Chain 3
  3. Work 3 DC into the same space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  6. Chain 1
  7. Repeat steps 5-6 , 5 more times
  8. Work 3 DC into the next chain 3 space
  9. Chain 3
  10. Work 3 DC into the same chain 3 space
  11. Chain 1
  12. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  13. Chain 1
  14. Repeat steps 12-13 , 5 more times
  15. Repeat steps 8-14 , 2 more times
  16. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  17. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 3 space
  18. Slip stitch into the chain 3 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 4 (3DC, CH3, 3DC) corners, each with 6 3DC clusters between them

Round 9:

  1. Work 2 DC into the space that you worked the chain 3
  2. Chain 3
  3. Work 3 DC into the same space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  6. Chain 1
  7. Repeat steps 5-6 , 6 more times
  8. Work 3 DC into the next chain 3 space
  9. Chain 3
  10. Work 3 DC into the same chain 3 space
  11. Chain 1
  12. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  13. Chain 1
  14. Repeat steps 12-13 , 6 more times
  15. Repeat steps 8-14 , 2 more times
  16. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  17. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 3 space
  18. Slip stitch into the chain 3 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 4 (3DC, CH3, 3DC) corners, each with 7 3DC clusters between them

Round 10:

  1. Work 2 DC into the space that you worked the chain 3
  2. Chain 3
  3. Work 3 DC into the same space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  6. Chain 1
  7. Repeat steps 5-6 , 7 more times
  8. Work 3 DC into the next chain 3 space
  9. Chain 3
  10. Work 3 DC into the same chain 3 space
  11. Chain 1
  12. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  13. Chain 1
  14. Repeat steps 12-13 , 7 more times
  15. Repeat steps 8-14 , 2 more times
  16. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  17. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 3 space
  18. Slip stitch into the chain 3 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 4 (3DC, CH3, 3DC) corners, each with 8 3DC clusters between them

Round 11:

  1. Work 2 DC into the space that you worked the chain 3
  2. Chain 3
  3. Work 3 DC into the same space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  6. Chain 1
  7. Repeat steps 5-6 , 8  more times
  8. Work 3 DC into the next chain 3 space
  9. Chain 3
  10. Work 3 DC into the same chain 3 space
  11. Chain 1
  12. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  13. Chain 1
  14. Repeat steps 12-13 , 8 more times
  15. Repeat steps 8-14 , 2 more times
  16. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  17. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 3 space
  18. Slip stitch into the chain 3 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 4 (3DC, CH3, 3DC) corners, each with 9 3DC clusters between them

Round 12:

  1. Work 2 DC into the space that you worked the chain 3
  2. Chain 3
  3. Work 3 DC into the same space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  6. Chain 1
  7. Repeat steps 5-6 , 9  more times
  8. Work 3 DC into the next chain 3 space
  9. Chain 3
  10. Work 3 DC into the same chain 3 space
  11. Chain 1
  12. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  13. Chain 1
  14. Repeat steps 12-13 , 9 more times
  15. Repeat steps 8-14 , 2 more times
  16. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  17. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 3 space
  18. Slip stitch into the chain 3 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 4 (3DC, CH3, 3DC) corners, each with 10 3DC clusters between them

Round 13:

  1. Work 2 DC into the space that you worked the chain 3
  2. Chain 3
  3. Work 3 DC into the same space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  6. Chain 1
  7. Repeat steps 5-6 , 10  more times
  8. Work 3 DC into the next chain 3 space
  9. Chain 3
  10. Work 3 DC into the same chain 3 space
  11. Chain 1
  12. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  13. Chain 1
  14. Repeat steps 12-13 , 10 more times
  15. Repeat steps 8-14 , 2 more times
  16. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  17. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 3 space
  18. Slip stitch into the chain 3 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 4 (3DC, CH3, 3DC) corners, each with 11 3DC clusters between them

Round 14:

  1. Work 2 DC into the space that you worked the chain 3
  2. Chain 3
  3. Work 3 DC into the same space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  6. Chain 1
  7. Repeat steps 5-6 , 11 more times
  8. Work 3 DC into the next chain 3 space
  9. Chain 3
  10. Work 3 DC into the same chain 3 space
  11. Chain 1
  12. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  13. Chain 1
  14. Repeat steps 12-13 , 11 more times
  15. Repeat steps 8-14 , 2 more times
  16. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  17. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 3 space
  18. Slip stitch into the chain 3 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 4 (3DC, CH3, 3DC) corners, each with 12 3DC clusters between them

Round 15:

  1. Work 2 DC into the space that you worked the chain 3
  2. Chain 3
  3. Work 3 DC into the same chain 3 space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  6. Chain 1
  7. Repeat steps 5-6 , 12 more times
  8. Work 3 DC into the next chain 3 space
  9. Chain 3
  10. Work 3 DC into the same chain 3 space
  11. Chain 1
  12. Work 3 DC in the next chain 1 space
  13. Chain 1
  14. Repeat steps 12-13 , 12 more times
  15. Repeat steps 8-14 , 2 more times
  16. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  17. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 3 space
  18. Slip stitch into the chain 3 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 4 (3DC, CH3, 3DC) corners, each with 13 3DC clusters between them

15 rounds was as far as I needed to go to make a size small, continue working in the pattern of adding one 3 DC cluster between the corners on each row until your square can wrap around your chest to the point where it reaches the middle of the armpit (or larger if you prefer a looser fitting sweater). You will be making a regular granny square for the back panel that will be the same size as the front panel.

The Back Panel

For the front panel, we are going to begin by making the base of the Wilderness Explorer logo and then start working the granny square around it.

Foundation :

This whole panel will be worked in Yellow

  1. Chain 5
  2. Slip stitch into the first chain to create a circle
  3. Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

Round 1 :

  1. Work 2 DC in the center of the circle
  2. Chain 3
  3. Work 3 DC into the center of the circle
  4. Chain 3
  5. Work 3 DC into the center of the circle
  6. Chain 3
  7. Work 3 DC into the center of the circle
  8. Chain 3
  9. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  10. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 3 space
  11. Slip stitch into the chain 3 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

Round 2 :

  1. Work 2 DC in the same space as your chain 3
  2. Chain 3
  3. Work 3 DC into the same space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Work 3 DC into the next chain 3 space
  6. Chain 3
  7. Work 3 DC into the same chain 3 space
  8. Chain 1
  9. Work 3 DC into the next chain 3 space
  10. Chain 3
  11. Work 3 DC into the same chain 3 space
  12. Chain 1
  13. Work 3 DC into the next chain 3 space
  14. Chain 3
  15. Work 3 DC into the same chain 3 space
  16. Chain 1
  17. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  18. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 3 space
  19. Slip stitch into the chain 3 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 4 corners of (3DC,CH3,3DC) each separated by a chain 1 space

Round 3 :

  1. Work 2 DC in the same space as your chain 3
  2. Chain 3
  3. Work 3 DC into the same space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Work 3 DC into the next chain 1 space
  6. Chain 1
  7. Work 3 DC into the next chain 3 space
  8. Chain 3
  9. Work 3 DC into the same chain 3 space
  10. Chain 1
  11. Work 3DC into the next chain 1 space
  12. Chain 1
  13. Repeat steps 7-12, 2 more time
  14. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  15. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 3 space
  16. Slip stitch into the chain 3 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 4 corners of (3DC,CH3,3DC) each separated by 1 3DC Cluster

Round 4 :

  1. Work 2 DC in the same space as your chain 3
  2. Chain 3
  3. Work 3 DC into the same space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Work 3 DC into the next chain 1 space
  6. Chain 1
  7. Repeat steps 5-6, 1 more time
  8. Work 3 DC into the next chain 3 space
  9. Chain 3
  10. Work 3 DC into the same chain 3 space
  11. Chain 1
  12. Work 3DC into the next chain 1 space
  13. Chain 1
  14. Repeat steps 5-6, 1 more time
  15. Repeat steps 8-13, 2 more times
  16. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  17. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 3 space
  18. Slip stitch into the chain 3 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 4 corners of (3DC,CH3,3DC) each separated by 2 3DC clusters

Round 5 :

  1. Work 2 DC in the same space as your chain 3
  2. Chain 3
  3. Work 3 DC into the same space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Work 3 DC into the next chain 1 space
  6. Chain 1
  7. Repeat steps 5-6, 2 more times
  8. Work 3 DC into the next chain 3 space
  9. Chain 3
  10. Work 3 DC into the same chain 3 space
  11. Chain 1
  12. Work 3DC into the next chain 1 space
  13. Chain 1
  14. Repeat steps 5-6, 2 more times
  15. Repeat steps 8-13, 2 more times
  16. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  17. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 3 space
  18. Slip stitch into the chain 3 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

You should end with 4 corners of (3DC,CH3,3DC) each separated by 3 3DC clusters

Repeat working rounds in this patterns where one more 3 DC cluster is added in between the corners in each round until the back panel is the same size as the front panel. Once you have worked it up to be the same size, you can begin sewing the two pieces together.

Sewing the Front and Back Panel Together

To sew these two panels together, stack them on top of each other and we will start by sewing together at the neckline. Sew evenly on each side so that you have created a neck hole in the middle that is your preferred size. (I only sewed up about 2 inches on each side of mine because i wanted a wide neckline).

Once you have created your neck hole you can place it over your head and place a marker on each side to indicate how large your armholes need to be (make sure they are place evenly on either side). Now that you have the markers on each side, you can start sewing up from the bottom corners up until your markers. Now you will have your neck hole and armholes in place for you to start working up your sleeves!

Sleeves

The sleeves will also be worked in the Yellow.  Start you sleeves by inserting your hook into any of the chain 1 spaces in the armhole.

Round 1:

  1. Chain 3 into one of the chain 1 space (counts as first DC)
  2. Work 2 DC into the same chain 1 space
  3. Chain 1
  4. Work 3 DC into the next chain 1 space
  5. Chain 1
  6. Repeat steps 4-5 for the rest of the round
  7. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  8. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 1 space
  9. Slip stitch into the chain 1 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

Round 2:

  1. Work 2 DC into the same chain 1 space as your chain 3
  2. Chain 1
  3. Work 3 DC into the next chain 1 space
  4. Chain 1
  5. Repeat steps 4-5 for the rest of the round
  6. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round
  7. Slip stitch into the top of each of the next two DC so that you end up at the chain 1 space
  8. Slip stitch into the chain 1 space and Chain 3 (counts as first DC of next round)

Repeat round 2 until your sleeve is your desired length, keep in mind that you will be adding about an inch to the sleeve when you add the cuff. One the last row you can end by chaining 1 rather than 3.

Adding The Sleeve Cuff

The sleeves cuffs are going to tighten up the end of the sleeve so it is so wide, so we will be joining some stitches together in the next round.

Round 1-3 will be worked in the Yellow

Round 1:

  1. In the last row you chained one in the chain 1 space, you can now work one SC into this chain 1 space
  2. Insert your hook into the first DC, YO and pull the yarn through (2 loops on your hook)
  3. Insert your hook into the second DC, YO and pull the yarn through (3 loops on your hook)
  4. Insert your hook into the third DC, YO and pull the yarn through (4 loops on your hook)
  5. YO and pull through all the loops on the hook
  6. SC in the next chain 1 space
  7. Repeat steps 2-6 all the way around
  8. Slip stitch into the 1st SC of the round
  9. Chain 1

Round 2-3:

  1. Work 1 SC into each stitch around the whole round
  2. Slip stitch into the 1st SC of the round

After the third round we will be switching to working with the Brown

Round 4-6

  1. Work 1 SC into each stitch around the whole round
  2. Slip stitch into the 1st SC of the round

When you have reached the end of round 6 you can tie off your yarn

Repeat all of these steps for the sleeve on the other side in order to create your second sleeve. Next we will be adding the trim to the Neckline and the bottom of the sweater.

Adding The Neckline Trim

Round 1-3:

  1. Work 1 SC into each stitch around the whole round
  2. Slip stitch into the 1st SC of the round

When you have reached the end of round 3 you can tie off your yarn

Adding The Bottom Of The Sweater Trim

Round 1-3:

  1. Work 1 SC into each stitch around the whole round
  2. Slip stitch into the 1st SC of the round

When you have reached the end of round 3 you can tie off your yarn

Creating The Wilderness Explorer Logo

For the last step we will be creating the elements of the Wilderness Explorer Logo and sewing them together and then onto the sweater.

Tree with Trunk

First we will create the Tree with the “E” for a trunk. You will be working with the Brown for the “E”

Foundation for the “E”:

  1. Chain 7 (plus 1)

Row 1:

  1. Work SC all along the chains (you should have 7 SC stitches)
  2.  Chain 1 and turn

Row 2: (First Branch of the “E”)

  1. SC into the first stitch
  2. Chain 1 and turn
  3. SC into the previous stitch
  4. Chain 1 and turn
  5. SC into the previous stitch
  6. Chain 1 and turn
  7. SC into the previous stitch
  8. Chain 1 and turn
  9. SC into the previous stitch
  10. Slips stitch your way down the side of the branch until you reach the base row

Row 2: (Second Branch of the “E”)

  1. Slip stitch into the next two stitches on the base row
  2. SC into the next stitch (the 4th stitch of the base row)
  3. Chain 1 and turn
  4. SC into the previous stitch
  5. Chain 1 and turn
  6. SC into the previous stitch
  7. Chain 1 and turn
  8. SC into the previous stitch
  9. Chain 1 and turn
  10. SC into the previous stitch
  11. Slips stitch your way down the side of the branch until you reach the base row

Row 2: (Third Branch of the “E”)

  1. Slip stitch into the next two stitches on the base row
  2. SC into the next stitch (the 7th stitch of the base row)
  3. Chain 1 and turn
  4. SC into the previous stitch
  5. Chain 1 and turn
  6. SC into the previous stitch
  7. Chain 1 and turn
  8. SC into the previous stitch
  9. Chain 1 and turn
  10. SC into the previous stitch
  11. Slips stitch your way down the side of the branch until you reach the base row
  12. Tie off

The Top Of The Tree

For this section you will be working in the Green

Foundation For The First Tier:

This section will be worked and attached the top of the “E” trunk

  1. Chain 7 (instead of turning you work you will start working straight into the top of the “E” with the chain 7 still on your hook)
  2. Work 5 SC stitches along the top of the “E”
  3. Chain 7 (plus 1) and turn

Row 1:

  1. Work SC stitches all along the row (You should end up with 19 SC stitches)
  2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 2:

This is where we are going to start decreasing the rows in order to create the tree shape.

  1. Work one decrease SC with your first two stitches
  2. Work SC stitches all along the rest of the row until the last two stitches
  3. Work on decrease SC with you last two stitches
  4. Chain 1 and turn

Row 3:

  1. Work one decrease SC with your first two stitches
  2. Work SC stitches all along the rest of the row until the last two stitches
  3. Work on decrease SC with you last two stitches
  4. Chain 1 and turn

Row 4:

  1. Work one decrease SC with your first two stitches
  2. Work SC stitches all along the rest of the row until the last two stitches
  3. Work on decrease SC with you last two stitches
  4. Tie off

Foundation For The Second Tier:

This section will be worked and attached the top of the first tree tier.

  1. Chain 3 (instead of turning you work you will start working straight into the top of the first tree tier with the chain 3 still on your hook)
  2. Work 7 SC stitches along the top of the first tree tier
  3. Chain 3 (plus 1) and turn

Row 1:

  1. Work SC stitches all along the row (You should end up with 13 SC stitches)
  2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 2:

This is where we are going to start decreasing the rows in order to create the tree shape.

  1. Work SC stitches all along the row until the last two stitches
  2. Work on decrease SC with you last two stitches
  3. Chain 1 and turn

Row 3:

  1. Work SC stitches all along the row until the last two stitches
  2. Work on decrease SC with you last two stitches
  3. Chain 1 and turn

Row 4:

  1. Work SC stitches all along the row until the last two stitches
  2. Work on decrease SC with you last two stitches
  3. Chain 1 and turn

Row 5:

  1. Work SC stitches all along the row until the last two stitches
  2. Work on decrease SC with you last two stitches
  3. Tie off

Foundation For The Third Tier:

This section will be worked and attached the top of the second tree tier.

  1. Chain 2 (instead of turning you work you will start working straight into the top of the first tree tier with the chain 2 still on your hook)
  2. Work 5 SC stitches along the top of the first tree tier
  3. Chain 2 (plus 1) and turn

Row 1:

  1. Work SC stitches all along the row (You should end up with 9 SC stitches)
  2. Chain 1 and turn

Row 2:

This is where we are going to start decreasing the rows in order to create the tree shape.

  1. Work SC stitches all along the row until the last two stitches
  2. Work on decrease SC with you last two stitches
  3. Chain 1 and turn

Row 3:

  1. Work SC stitches all along the row until the last two stitches
  2. Work on decrease SC with you last two stitches
  3. Chain 1 and turn

Row 4:

  1. Work SC stitches all along the row until the last two stitches
  2. Work on decrease SC with you last two stitches
  3. Chain 1 and turn

Row 5:

  1. Work SC stitches all along the row until the last two stitches
  2. Work on decrease SC with you last two stitches
  3. Chain 1

Row 6:

  1. Work 1 SC into the Top to create to peak of tree
  2. Tie off

Creating The “W”

Now that you have the tree complete, you will be creating the “W” that is on the tree.

Foundation:

  1. Chain 22

Row 1:

  1. SC into the first 6 stitches
  2. Skip two chains
  3. SC into the next 2 stitches
  4. 3 SC into the next stitch
  5. SC into the next 2 stitches
  6. Skip two chains
  7. SC in the next 6 stitches
  8. Tie off

This will very loosely create a W shape that you will kind of have to pull into shape when you are sewing it on. Speaking of which, now that you have all of your components, the last few steps are to sew the W onto the middle of the tree, and then continue by sewing the entire tree motif onto the middle of the orange circle on the front panel of your sweater. Weave in any ends and you are done!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! It is a cute and easy sweater to bring out your Disney love. As always if you have any question please feel free to reach out, and if you end up making this top tag me on instagram or send me a picture! I would love to see the final product! You guys are the best!

2 thoughts on “The Wilderness Explorer Sweater Crochet Pattern

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